IMCS Climbing Guides

I grew up in both California and Maine with a parent in each state, and I still follow an east/west migration pattern. I spend summers guiding in the Tetons for Exum Mountain Guides, winters on ice and granite in New Hampshire, and the rest of my year guiding and climbing on other mountains all over the world. I started climbing in Acadia National Park while attending college in Maine, and New England has always been my favorite cragging, ice/mixed climbing, and training ground for bigger mountains.

Climbing Experience

Alaska:

Mt Hunter- Moonflower Buttress attempt- 21pitches VI WI6, Wall of Shadows 2nd ascent VI 5.9A1WI6 w/ Kevin Mahoney, French Couloir attempt
Denali- Slovak Route (aka Czech Direct) 2nd ascent VI 5.9A2WI6 w/ Mahoney, Common Knowledge FA on the Washburn Face VI WI6R, 26hrs w/ Mahoney and Bruce Miller
Moose’s Tooth- Arctic Rage FA VI WI6+RA2 w/ Mahoney, SE Face, FA VI 5.9A3WI6 w/ Mahoney and Steve House
Mt Dickey- Snow Patrol, 2nd ascent VI WI5+ w/ Freddie Wilkinson and Owen Samuel
The Fin- The Fin Wall, FA VI NEI 5+mixed, 26hrs w/ Wilkinson and Peter Ducette
Mantok Group- All Talk Couloir, FA IV M5 WI4, 12hrs w/ Wilkinson and Ducette

Argentina

Aguja De La S – West Ridge, Dec. ‘07
Cerro Torre – Compressor Route, 30hrs Dec. ‘04
Fitzroy- N Pillar Casarotto Route, FA variation Diedro Directo VI 5.10 A3 Feb 2000

New Hampshire:

Cathedral Ledge- Repentance NEI5, Remission direct start NEI5+, Cathedral Direct 5.10WI5+, Diedre 5.9WI5+, Dresden M6
Whitehorse Ledge- Myth of Sisyphus WI5 M5
Cannon Cliff- Prozac FA M6WI6, Mean Streak M7WI6, Black Dike WI5
Lake Willoughby-Kryosonics FA M7+RNEI5R, Promenade WI5, Last Gentlemen WI5
Trollville- Diaper Rash M7, Purple People Eater M6
Slander Crag- Poached Eggs M7+, Patty Gonzales M7, Pinhead M7
Mt Willard- Corkscrew Pillar WI5, Zig Pig FA M5, Peace of Mind M5
Frankenstein- Bragg/Pheasant WI5, Dropline WI5, Welcome To the Machine WI5
Humphrey’s Ledge- Soul Survivor M6

Washington/B.C.:

Mt Rainier-Liberty Ridge, Emmons Glacier, Mt Baker-many routes, Glacier Pk-Frostbite Ridge, Eldorado Pk, Forbidden Pk-W Ridge III 5.7, Prussik Pk-S Face IV 5.9, Mt Slesse-NE Buttress V 5.9, Liberty Bell-Liberty Crack V 5.10A2, Thin Red Line V5.9A3, Mt Stuart-N Ridge V 5.10, Mt Combatant-Solo Blue FA V 5.7A3, Mt Hickson-N Face V 5.8A1 AI4, Bugaboos- McTech Arete III 5.10a, Wildflowers IV 5.9, NE Ridge Bugaboo Spire IV 5.7
Many shorter climbs at Leavenworth, Vantage, Tieton River, Index, Exit 38, Mt Erie, Smith Rock, Squamish, Skaha

Canadian Rockies:

Sea of Vapors WI6, Nemesis WI6, Kitty Hawk WI5, Polar Circus WI5, Weeping Pillar WI6, Mt Chephren attempt-The Wild Thing w/ FA direct start variation VI M6+ A0 WI5+

Chile

Torres del Paine Natl. Park- Torre Norte via Monzino Route V5.10 Jan 2000

India

April/May 2003 Thalay Sagar Expedition, attempted a new route on the N face.

Wyoming

Grand Teton, Middle Teton, Death Canyon-The Snaz, Caviat Emptor Gannet Peak-Gooseneck Ridge and S Couloir, Elephant Head, Fremont Peak, Cirque of the Towers; Many shorter routes in Sinks Canyon, Wild Iris, Vedauvoo and Split Rock

Yosemite

El Capitan-Lost in America, South Seas/PO Wall, Triple Direct, and W Face Leaning Tower-W Face, Washington Column-S Face, The Prow

Joshua Tree:

Hot Rocks 5.10d, Illusion Dweller 5.10b, Fisticuffs 5.10c, Clean and Jerk 5.10c, Imaginary Voyage 5.10d, Left Ski Track 5.11a; Hundreds of other routes

Red Rocks:

Levitation 29 5.11, Mountain Beast 5.11a, Cloud Tower 5.12a, Eagle Dance 5.10, Resolution Arete 5.11, Dream of Mountain Woman 5.11, Epinephrine 5.9, Prince of Darkness 5.10, many shorter routes 5.9-5.11

Newfoundland:

Blow Me Down Wall- FA Weightin’ For That Train V 5.10 A4 Sept ‘96

Guiding Experience: Full-time guide since 1994

Exum Mountain Guides: Tetons, WY since 2004
International Mountain Climbing School: North Conway, NH Winters since 1999
Alaska Mountaineering School: Talkeetna, Alaska: Guided Ham and Eggs on Mooses Tooth 4/06
Alpine Ascents International: Seattle, WA 2002-2005: Guided Ham and Eggs on Mooses Tooth and N Ridge of Mt Blackburn, Alaska 5/04
Atlantic Climbing School: Bar Harbor, Maine, August of 1999, 2000, 2006, 2007 Instruct pre-season guide training for Atlantic Climbing School staff.
NOLS Senior Staff Level 3 from 1994-2003: 175 field weeks leading 14-32 day mountaineering and rock climbing courses. Mountaineering courses in Wyoming, North Cascades, Waddington Range, Alaska (Denali ’01 Muldrow/Harper Glacier route, Chugach, Wrangells-Mt Blackburn).Rock climbing courses at Mt. Lemmon, Cochise Stronghold, Santa Teresas, Leavenworth, Squamish, and Smith Rock.

Certifications and Training:

AMGA Certified Alpine and Rock Guide
WFR: Current until March ‘09
CPR: Current until March ‘09
AIARE Level 3 Avalanche: January ‘04
Guide Training with Tom Hargis: 3 days February ‘04
Exum Guide Training: 2 days June ’05, ‘07
NOLS Winter Instructor Training: 10 days February ‘97
NOLS Level 2 Avalanche: February ‘97
NOLS Mountaineering Training: 10 days May ‘94
NOLS Instructors Course: Wind Rivers, 32 days ‘93
Spanish language: functional; 4 yrs. in high school, 2 trips to Mexico, 3 trips to Argentina, and one to Chile

Grants/Awards:

2008 Mugs Stump Award – N Face Kangtega, Nepal
2007 Mugs Stump Award – Fin Wall, AK
2004 Piolet d’Or Nominee – Arctic Rage
2004 Climbing Magazine Golden Piton Award
2004 Mugs Stump Award – E Face Mooses Tooth, AK
2003 Lyman Spitzer Award – N Face Thalay Sagar, India
2003 Alpinist B-Team Grant – N Face Thalay Sagar, India
AAC Fellowship Grant 1996 – Blow Me Down, Newfoundland
NOLS Instructor Development Grants in 1999, 2000, 2001