 |
Huntington
Ravine,
home to world-class moderate alpine terrain with the "world's worst
weather" to keep things interesting. From left to right: Odell's Gully,
Pinnacle Buttress, Pinnacle Gully, Central Buttress and Central Gully. Early
season conditions - December 23, 2001 |
The
1st pitch of Pinnacle Gully is typically narrow for early season ascents.
Seek sheltered belay away from potential ice fall. A 60 meter rope comes
in handy on this pitch as do short screws. |
A 60
meter rope will get you to
a piton anchor station (backed up with small rock gear). Keep tucked in
against the wall to avoid getting hit by falling ice.
Multiple parties on the route are not recommended but it happens
often on this climb. Cooperative rope teams can work together
to make the situation as safe
as possible. |
The
2nd pitch features low angled snow climbing and detached ice over running
water. If your thirsty you can usually find some on this pitch in the early
season. Watch for holes in the ice and potential water dams during warming
spells. |
Even
though the climbing is easy this pitch has seen many odd and interesting
incidents over the years. This section of the climb is dark and never receives
any sun. This is good when you want to stay cool but it can also be a brutal
place to be when the wind screams down the gully. Be familiar with options
for descent. |
Much
of the 2nd pitch is best climbed using one axe. Near the top of the pitch
the ice gets thicker with a couple of steeper steps. Using two tools to
get over the steps is a good idea and gives you another point of contact
to ice that is not totally bonded to the rock below. |
3-point,
equalized and non extending ice screws form the anchor at the 2nd anchor
station. Probably overkill. Evaluate the ice,
the terrain, your partner
and weather to determine the best way to protect
your ascent (or descent). |
Looking
back at the top of the Pinnacle Buttress after completing the climb of Pinnacle
Gully. From here we picked out way through the rocks up to the Alpine Garden
and over to Lion Head trail. Makes for a long day and memorable day on Mt.
Washington |
Dr.
Bob Terrill
of Northboro MA enjoying
the Pinnacle experience. |
 |
