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Eruption
of Guagua Pichincha in October 1999. Ecuador was called The Avenue of the
Volcanos" by the famous German exploer and scientist Alexander von
Humboldt. |
San Francisco Cathedral
built by the Spanish in the late 16th century. In addition to the climbing
itinerary we provide time to enjoy live Andean music, Inca ruins, incredible
colonial architecture, and colorful indigenous markets. The cultural tour
will enable you to see unique places and interact with the native people. |
This is what the top
of Guagua Pichincha (15,780 ft) looked like in November 2000. This is the
first acclimatization hike we do after arriving in Quito. Climbers can look
down into the crater and smell the sulfurous gases. The summit offers tremendous
views of Quito. |
Our next destination
is the Iliniza region and the Nuevos Horizontes refugio for attempts on
Iliniza Norte and Sur. Iliniza Sur (17,265 ft) is one of the most technical
climbs in Ecuador and one of the most beautiful peaks. |
Michelle Piro relaxing
on the summit of Iliniza Sur with the summit of Iliniza Norte (16,818 ft)
in the background. The climb of Norte is basically non-technical with the
exception of a short rock scramble for the final 30 feet to the summit. |
Snow draped summit
of Iliniza Sur. This relatively steep and crevassed mountain is one of the
more difficult climbs in Ecuador and is not for beginners. Climbers should
be experienced with roped travel skills and ice axe self-arrest. The Normal
Route works up a weakness to the right of center and basically heads straight
up to the higher summit on the right. A memorable climb. |
Basecamp in Cotopaxi
National
Park with the beautiful peak Sincholagua (16,050 ft) in the background.
We spend two nights and three days here as we undertake the climb of Cotopaxi.
Here we will enjoy homecooked meals prepared by Graciella, do a day hike
to Cerro Ruminahui and a day of glacier travel/crevasse rescue skills prep. |
On our way to the central
peak
of Cerro Ruminahui (15,455 ft) we enjoy fantastic views of Cotopaxi (19,342
ft) as we hike through the open "paramo", a specialized zone unique
to tropical South America.
It is not uncommon to run into
small herds of wild horses. The
climb of Ruminahui takes about five hours and is excellent preparation
for the following evening's ascent
of Cotopaxi. |
Rolling fields in the
shadow of Cayambe (18,991 ft). Cayambe is the highest and coldest place
on the equator. It is the only place on earth where it gets zero degrees
Fahrenheit at zero degrees latitude. Cayambe is a massively glaciated extinct
volcano. The IMCS team in 2000 climbed this mountain and reported it to
be a great experience, requiring a rappel over a bergshrund near the summit. |
We drive right to
the refugio on Cayambe. Long thought extinct, Cayambe is now deemed an active
volcano and is constantly monitored. It is common to smell sulfurous gases
while climbing the route ( I know we did in 2000). The ascent is moderate
in grade but deceptively long. The climb takes about ten to twelve hours
round trip from the refugio |
Antisana is a big,
wild, crevasse covered mountain with interesting climbing and few ascents.
IMCS has climbed the peak the past two years and reached the summit on our
last attempt in November 2001. We plan to make another attempt in 2002.
Hone your glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills for this peak. Good
route finding and team roped travel skills will be put to the test. |
Ecuadorian guide Jaime climbing near the summit of Antisana.
The route is moderate from a climbing standpoint but serious nonetheless
because of the number and size
of its crevasses. Antisana is also very remote so any problems that arise
must be handled by the team. Organized rescue is not readily available.
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Chimborazo and the Whymper Refugio.
Chimborazo is the highest peak in Ecuador, although it is not the height
that impresses you but more the sheer bulk of the mountain. Over the past
two years Chimborazo has been in poor climbing condition as a result of
ash blown on its slope by Tungurahua, a neighboring volcano. This ash has
melted much of the snow on Chimborazo leaving the slopes covered in dirt
encrusted ice and large penitentes. |
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