International Mountain
Climbing School

2733 Main Street, Rt. 16
P.O. Box 1666
North Conway, NH 03860
PHONE: (603) 356-7064
FAX: (603) 356-6492
EMAIL: guides@ime-usa.com

 
  Home
   
  What's New
 
  Trips, Treks
& Expeditions
 
  Rock Climbing
 
  Ice Climbing & Mountaineering
 
  Our Climbing Guides
 
  Photo Gallery
 
  Info Request Form
 
  Registration Info
 
  Lodging Nearby
 
  Directions
 
  Links

15th Annual
Ice Fest

16th Annual Women's
Rock Day

Huascaran - 6,768m / 22,200ft
Southwest Slope - Garganta Route
Cordillera Blanca, Peru
June 15 - July 2, 2006
Index Page Itinerary Terms & Conditions
Peru Photo Gallery Registration Form English - Spanish Key Words
Equipment List view of The Shield route above Camp I on Huascaran Sur. Photo by former IMCs guide Justin Preisnedorfer
Documents:
Passport
Wallet/money/credit cards
Plane Tickets
Trip Itinerary
Immunization records
Medical allergies and restrictions
Pen, pencil and paper (journal)
Literature
Phone book
Clothing:  
Travel clothing
Shorts and t-shirts
(2) polypro or capilene t-shirts for approaches.
Long Underwear tops & bottoms (1st layer) - most basic item in the layering system. Bring two tops and at least one bottom. Mid weight is recommended
Schoeller fabric pants (2nd layer). Most ascents in Peru can be done with three bottom layers. Schoeller pants go a long way. When it gets real cold you can add your storm pant as 3rd layer.
Pile Bibs - functional alternative to pile pants for long cold days. An excellent 2nd layer for the legs above Camp I.
Gore-Tex or equivalent Storm Pants (3rd layer). Full side zip recommended so you can add/remove them to your layering systems without having to take off boots or crampons.
Fleece pullover (2nd layer)
Fleece jacket (3rd layer)
Gore-Tex or equivalent Storm Parka (4th layer). Must fit comfortably over underwear and pile layers. Underarm zips recommended. Know how to adjust your hood.
Down or Synthetic Parka with hood (5th layer). You will find yourself using this layering item on the high peaks.
Pile Vest - Fits well over underwear top and under pile jacket. Optional but useful.
Hats - fleece/pile watch cap, heavyweight fleece balaclava, thin polypro balaclava. Baseball caps are valuable on treks and glacier travel.
Gloves or Mittens - Windstopper liner gloves, ski gloves, and heavy wool/pile mitten with shell. An extra pair of insulated gloves is a good idea for a longer trip.
Face Mask - Neoprene  
Technical Gear: Clouds above Camp I. Photo by Maury McKinney (click for larger size image)
65-75cm mountaineering axe
50cm ice hammer for use on ice slopes above Camp II.
Crampons with step in bindings and anti-balling plates.
Harness with adjustable leg loops
(1) Jumar or other ascending device
(3) locking carabiners
(3) regular carabiners
(1) rappel/belay device
(2) shoulder length slings
(1) double length sling
(1) 16ft x 6mm cordellette
(1) lightweight pulley
(1) pair of trekking poles (three section collapsible recommended)
Packs & Sleeping:  
Large capacity climbing pack (5,000ci) - We use the Cold Cold World Chaos.
Day Pack - 2,000 cu.in. for dau hike of Churup and as a carry-on for the flights.
(2) water bottles with water bottle parkas
Pack cover - don't forget this item becasue it does rain in Peru and having a pack cover will at least keep the contents of your pack dry.
Small personal repair kit (duct tape, thread, needle, safety pins, wire, nylon cord)
-20F sleeping bag and sleeping pad
Compressions stuff sacks and stuff bags
Pee bottle (different size and/or shape than the water bottles)
Footwear:  
Plastic mountaineering boots
Hiking boots - make sure the boot has a formed heel for use on rocky terrain
Running shoes - for use around town and on the flight
Sandals - for use at camp to allow your feet to stay dry
Gaiters - Alpine-style or super gaiter East Ridge of Huascaran Norte with Huascaran Sur to the left. Photo by Maury McKinney (click for larger size image)
(3) Heavy wool or wool/synthetic blend
(3) polypro liner socks
VBL Socks - Optional. Keep socks and boots dry
Essential Personal Gear:
Goggles, glacier glasses and sunglasses
Headlamp w/ two extra batteries. While a Petzl Tikka headlamp is suitable for the trekking peaks it does not provide enough candle power for the big peaks where you spend a lot of time climbig in the dark on a glacier surrounded by crevasses. Bring a bigger headlamp like to Petzl Duo or Zoom
Swiss Army Knife
(3) cotton bandanas
Insulated mug and spoon (put your initials on them)
Lighter or waterproof matches
Stuff sacks
Lip Balm
Toiletries
(5) pair of chemical hand warmers
Sun Screen (SPF 15+)
Watch / alarm clock
(2) mule bags with locks. One is for personal gear and the other for
community gear or to leave behind in Quito with clothing or items you do not want to bring with you.
Small first aid kit (personal prescriptions, aspirin, Tylenol, ibuprofen, moleskin, eye drops, latex gloves/microshield)
Recommended Personal Prescriptions:
Diamox - for acclimatization and prevention/treatment of altitude related illnesses. Some climbers have found starting a course a couple of days before trip departure to aid the accliatization process significanly. Take a 250mg table and split in two halves then take 125mg in the morning with breakfast and then the other 125 in the evening with dinner. Remember, Diamox is a diuretic so spend a little extra attention to staying hydrated
Cipro - wide spectrum antibiotic. This is the most often used medication on all of our international trips. If you get diarrhea you should go on a five-day course of two pills per day. Once you begin course of Cipro DO NOT stop it.
Lomotil - the second most widely used medication on internation trips. it will not sure the cause of your diarrhea but it will allow you to travel in a bus, car or plane a little more comfortable and with a little more dignity.
Antacids, Motion Sickness and Laxatives  
Optional Personal Gear:  
Camera with plenty of film  
Booties  
Altimeter Watch  
Thermos for tea/hot chocolate  
     
Community Gear Provided at No Cost to Team Members:
Expedition first aid kit
All tents necessary on the trek and climb including cooking, dining and personal tents
All cooking equipment including stove, pots, pans and fuel
All food on the mountain and trek to basecamp
All maps and ropes for climbing
Snow protection to include ice screws, snow pickets and deadmen
Wands
Water purification equipment
Gamow Bag and Pulse Oximeter

 Back to the Top

If you need any more information, you can contact us by:
Email: guides@ime-usa.com or Phone: (603) 356-7064