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| Artesonraju |
| Southeast
Face or North Ridge |
| Cordillera
Blanca, Peru |
| June 22 - July 9, 2006 |
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| Please note that this itinerary is a guideline
only. Although every effort will be made to adhere to it, unforeseen
circumstances may force changes to be made at the last moment.
Please be prepared to be flexible when necessary. |
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| Trip
Itinerary |
|
| Day |
Activity |
| 1 |
9:30pm departure from Miami. |
| 2 |
Arrive in Lima at ~4:00am. A private bus
will pick us up at the airport for the 8-hour drive to Huaraz.
This is a killer travel day. Drink plenty of water and stretch,
read and relax. We have done many Peru trips through the years
and this schedule has proven to give us maximum time in the
mountains. We should get to Hostal
Colonia early in the afternoon on Friday. We will spend
the rest of the day recovering from the transport and beginning
the acclimatization process as we will be at 10,300 ft. Our
hosts and outfitters in Huaraz will be Maruja
Colonia and Gilf Lazaro. |
| 3 |
Eat breakfast at Hostal Colonia and prepare for
a day hike to Churup. This is intended to be an easy hike as
we have some hard days ahead
of us. |
| 4 |
Finish getting provisions set for
climb of Pisco and then transport to Cebellopampa, the start
of our hike (12,997 ft) in the Llanganuco Valley. The walk to
Pisco
basecamp (~ 3-4 hours) can be steep and difficult in the
warm midday sun so a reasonably early start is advisable. The
small trees and forests provide some cool shade until the altitude
provides a coolness of its own. The path meanders from the valley
floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside.
The sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which
we will find our camp for the night. The head of the valley
is dominated by a large moraine, which bounds the right flank
of the Huandoy glacier. Basecamp is at an elevation of 15,248'. |
| 5 |
Day hike to Moraine Camp at snowline (16,400 ft.)
on Pisco. The path will take us straight up the steep moraine.
Once on the crest, we shall walk along the top facing towards
Huandoy before descending steeply down the other side and on
to the boulder
covered glacier below. There are many footpaths marked by
cairns that lead across the glacier to the far side - the trick
will be to choose the quickest and easiest. Moraine Camp is
located amongst boulders beside a small mountain
lake at the tip of the Pisco glacier. Time: 3 to 4 hours.
We will store some climbing equipment here so we can travel
light the following day. Return to basecamp. |
| 6 |
Rest day. Sleep late, eat breakfast, rest, hydrate,
eat lunch and get geared up for a 2:00am start the following
day. Climbers should get to bed by no later than 6:00pm so you
can get a full nights sleep. |
| 7 |
Summit day, Pisco
Oeste (5,752m/18,866ft). Leave basecamp ~2:00am. We will
gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without
difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco
Col (5,350m, 17, 548ft). From here, the route climbs broad
slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 35°),
we will need to be careful in picking our route
through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the
final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow
slope, a short pitch of 40°, before pulling on to the summit.
Our ascent will be rewarded by magnificent views, especially
of Chopicalqui, Chacaraju and Huascaran.
Time: 10 hours round trip. |
| 8 |
Get up early, eat breakfast and descend back to
Cebellopampa to get picked up by our private bus and transported
to trailhead for Paron Valley (if we decide to climb the Southeast
Face route) or Quebrada Santa Cruz (for the North Ridge route).
This decision will depend on current snow conditions. We will
hike a short way into our next climb and set camp. |
| 9 |
Hike into Artesonraju basecamp. |
| 10 |
Carry to Camp I, return to basecamp. |
| 11 |
Move to Camp I |
| 12 |
Rest day, weather day |
|
| 13 |
Summit day for Artesonraju (6,025m / 19,767ft),
Descend to Camp I |
| 14 |
Descend to basecamp |
|
| 15 |
Back to trailhead and transport back to Huaraz |
| 16 |
Free day for shopping in Huaraz |
| 17 |
Transport back to Lima for afternoon departure.
Remember to have $25 in correct change for the airport tax. |
| 18 |
Arrive home. |
Itinerary still under construction so check back
later for more details
or give us a call at (603) 356-7064. Maury McKinney 12/3/03 |
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