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International Mountain Climbing School 2733 Main Street, Rt. 16 P.O. Box 1666 North Conway, NH 03860 PHONE: (603) 356-7064 FAX: (603) 356-6492 EMAIL: guides@ime-usa.com |
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| 14th
Annual Women's Rock Day |
| Alpamayo | ||||||||
| Southwest Face - Ferrari Route | ||||||||
| Cordillera Blanca, Peru | ||||||||
| June 7-24, 2007 | ||||||||
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 "La
Montana mas bella en todo el mundo" means, "the most beautiful
mountain in the world". One look at the southwest face of Alpamayo
and any climber in the world would be interested in attempting to
climb this remarkable peak. Wildly fluted faces combine with knife-edge
ridges to form one of the most remarkable peaks in the world. Climbing
Alpamayo, at an elevation of 19,512 feet, can be one of the highlights
of an alpinist's career. Alpamayo's Southwest Face offers 1,200 ft.
of challenging alpine ice, much of it at 60 degrees or steeper. |
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| This expedition demands a synthesis of high altitude performance and technical climbing skills designed for experienced climbers. Alpamayo's SW face is a magnificent objective for technical mountaineering. Six hundred meters of sixty-degree snow and ice sweeping up above the high col takes you to the sculpted summit ridge and the views shared with the Andean Condors. | ||||||||
| Climbing in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru is to become immersed in the mountains, culture, vistas and villages. A chance to journey in one of the great ranges of the world while learning as much about the customs and colors of Peru as you do about yourself in high places. A great adventure with easy access, typically stable weather and firsthand knowledge of the peak will stack the odds in our favor. | ||||||||
| This trip is offered to experienced mountaineers that are ready for the challenge of expedition life. We feel this peak is most safely climbed with a client to guide ratio of two to one and will run this trip with a small group of six motivated climbers. All our accommodations and support will be first class, Peruvian style, and our itinerary designed to allow ample time for success. We also intend to sample the attractions that Huaraz Peru has to offer from the great restaurants and discos to the steam caves and natural hot baths. An expedition and vacation all in one. | ||||||||
| Our adventure begins when we land in Lima and prepare for same-day transport to the mountain town of Huaraz. Nestled beneath the Cordillera Blanca, Huaraz is the cultural center of the region and Peru's hub for the international climbing community. Acclimatization to the thinner air begins in Huaraz where, at 10,500', we spend two days exploring the colorful town and organizing for the upcoming climbs. | ||||||||
| We begin our approach to Alpamayo with a private van ride to the town of Cashapampa. Here we meet our Arriero and the burros that will carry our gear for the 2-day trek to Alpamayo Base Camp. Our trek up the Santa Cruz valley takes us beneath some of the most famous scenery of the Cordillera Blanca. The stark pyramid of Kitaraju and Santa Cruz's enormous bulk dominate the skyline but are two among many. After a night at Base Camp (14,500'), we move up valley to Moraine Camp (16,000') situated at the toe of the glacier. There we prepare for the final move to High Camp and the summit. | ||||||||
| To reach High Camp, the route takes us up a highly crevassed glacier towards the col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. We ascend the final 650 feet to the col navigating 45 to 70 degree slopes and make our High Camp at 17,200' on the other side of the col protected from the prevailing winds. When conditions are optimal, the summit push from the col follows 45 degree slopes to the intensely fluted Southwest Face. On the face we climb 60 to 75 degree snow and ice slopes which lead directly to the summit. Climbing at this level of technical difficulty to a 19,512' summit is a challenge for any alpinist. Standing atop Alpamayo, one of the most beautiful places on earth, is a vast thrill for any climber. No matter what else you accomplish mountaineering, climbing Alpamayo will be unforgettable. | ||||||||
| Land Cost: |
$3,700 group of three $4, 200 group of two $6, 250 private |
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| Dates: | June 9-26, 2005 | |||||||
| Registration | ||||||||
| A registration packet is available at IMCS, which includes an application form, release of liability form and a confidential medical form. All must be properly and honestly filled out and returned along with a $700 deposit before we can accept you as an expedition member. If you have any questions or are wondering about any of the prerequisites, please call or e-mail us. | ||||||||
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