International Mountain
Climbing School

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North Conway, NH 03860
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15th Annual
Ice Fest

16th Annual Women's
Rock Day

IMCS / New England
Ama Dablam (22,525ft. / 6,867m)
Southwest Ridge Expedition
Khumbu Himal, Nepal
September 17 - October 21, 2004
Trip Index Equipment List Terms & Conditions Registration
Trip Itinerary  
Please note that this itinerary is a guideline only. Although every effort will be made to adhere to it, unforeseen circumstances may force changes to be made at the last moment. Please be prepared to be flexible when necessary.
Day Activity  
1 Depart US
2 Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel. Rest and Recuperate.
3 Spend the morning sightseeing around Kathmandu. Some amount of time will be spent with a expedition & trek briefing in the afternoon.
4 Prepare gear. More sightseeing around Katmandu.
5 Group leaves for Lukla. Morning flight. Hike to Phakding. (8,700')
6 Hike to Namche Bazaar. (11,300') open market in Namche Bazaar (click for larger image)
7 Rest day in Namche Bazaar. (11,300')
8 Hike to Thyangboche (12,670')
9 Puja Ceremony at Monastery. Second night in Thyangboche.
10 Hike to Ama Dablam Base Camp. (14,500') On this day we separate from the trekking group.
11 Rest Day in Base Camp. (14,500')
12 Prep gear for high camps. (14,500')
13 Ferry loads to Camp 1 (18,000'). Sleep in base camp. (14,500). Follow old grassy moraine ridges eastwards to a broad saddle at 16,900' from where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle we ascend easily northwards until the ground steepens at the start of a large boulder field. The route continues in a northwards direction around the base of the boulder field, and then follow cairns upwards towards the toe of the SW ridge. Camp 1 should now be visible. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, which allows access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1. There are four or five tent platforms.
14 Ferry loads to Camp 1 (18,000') Sleep in base camp. (14,500')
15 Rest day in Base Camp. (14,500')
16 Hike to Camp 1 and spend night. (18,000')
17 Rest day in Camp 1. (18,000')
18 Ferry loads to Camp 2. (19,500') Sleep at Camp 1. (18,000).Contour round the snowy bowl until below two rock fingers. The east side of the ridge is followed, climbing easy mixed ground until a short pitch of 5.4 rock leads to the ridge proper. The ridge is narrow in places with difficulties on the east side, until the second tension traverse leads to two pitches 5.6. The route continues on the crest of the ridge for a short distance until an awkward step onto the west side of the ridge. The crest of the ridge is regained and easy ground followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the yellow tower. This pitch, which is just below Camp II, is one of the hardest pitches on the climb at 5.8. A short section of ridge now leads to Camp 2. Camp 2 has very limited tent space and is extremely exposed. It is often only used as an equipment dump with many expeditions choosing to go from Camp 1 to Camp 3 in a single push.
19 Rest day at Camp 1
20 Climb to Camp 2 and spend night (19,500')
21 Climb to Camp 3 (20,600'). The climb skirts a red rock bluff on the east and after a step down, follows the snow ridge direct to an awkward traverse eastwards which leads to a gully between the gray tower and the lower rock buttress. We climb the gully until a very exposed traverse line is reached on the west side of the ridge. A short snow slope is ascended to the start of the mushroom ridge. This is followed to a large crevasse in the upper face, which gives access to a small snowfield. We skirt around the crevasse to the east side where Camp 3 is situated.
22 Climb to summit (22,525') and descend to Camp 2. The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp 3 and to the right hand side of the Dablam (there can be hard water ice on this section). We continue to skirt the Dablam on the right side and then move westwards to gain a small snowfield below the bergschrund. The bergschrund is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the obvious ice crest. This is followed in a magnificent position to the summit.
23 extra summit day Ama Dablam
24 extra summit day
25 Descend from Camp 2 to Base Camp
26 Rest Base Camp
27 Strip Camp 1
28 Prepare for departure
29 Depart for Namche Bazaar
30 Hike to Lukla
31 Fly to Kathmandu
32 Free day in Kathmandu.
33 Depart Kathmandu
34 Arrive in Los Angeles
35 Arrive Home!

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Email: guides@ime-usa.com or Phone: (603) 356-7064