| IMCS
/ New England |
| Ama
Dablam (22,525ft. / 6,867m) |
| Southwest
Ridge Expedition |
| Khumbu
Himal, Nepal |
| September
17 - October 21, 2004 |
|
|
| Trip
Itinerary |
|
| Please note that this
itinerary is a guideline only. Although every effort will be made
to adhere to it, unforeseen circumstances may force changes to be
made at the last moment. Please be prepared to be flexible when necessary. |
| Day |
Activity |
|
| 1 |
Depart
US |
| 2 |
Arrive
in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel. Rest and Recuperate. |
| 3 |
Spend
the morning sightseeing around Kathmandu. Some amount of time will
be spent with a expedition & trek briefing in the afternoon. |
| 4 |
Prepare
gear. More sightseeing around Katmandu. |
| 5 |
Group
leaves for Lukla. Morning flight. Hike to Phakding. (8,700') |
| 6 |
Hike
to Namche Bazaar. (11,300') |
 |
| 7 |
Rest
day in Namche Bazaar. (11,300') |
| 8 |
Hike
to Thyangboche (12,670') |
| 9 |
Puja
Ceremony at Monastery. Second night in Thyangboche. |
| 10 |
Hike
to Ama
Dablam Base Camp. (14,500') On this day we separate from the trekking
group. |
| 11 |
Rest
Day in Base Camp. (14,500') |
| 12 |
Prep
gear for high camps. (14,500') |
| 13 |
Ferry
loads to Camp 1 (18,000'). Sleep in base camp. (14,500). Follow
old grassy moraine ridges eastwards to a broad saddle at 16,900' from
where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle we ascend easily northwards
until the ground steepens at the start of a large boulder field. The
route continues in a northwards direction around the base of the boulder
field, and then follow cairns upwards towards the toe of the SW ridge.
Camp 1 should now be visible. At the end of the boulder field, slabs
are crossed and then a short gully ascended, which allows access to
the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the
east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1. There are four or
five tent platforms. |
| 14 |
Ferry
loads to Camp 1 (18,000') Sleep in base camp. (14,500') |
| 15 |
Rest
day in Base Camp. (14,500') |
| 16 |
Hike
to Camp 1 and spend night. (18,000') |
| 17 |
Rest
day in Camp 1. (18,000') |
| 18 |
Ferry
loads to Camp
2. (19,500') Sleep at Camp 1. (18,000).Contour round the snowy
bowl until below two rock fingers. The east side of the ridge is followed,
climbing easy mixed ground until a short pitch of 5.4 rock leads to
the ridge proper. The ridge is narrow in places with difficulties
on the east side, until the second tension traverse leads to two pitches
5.6. The route continues on the crest of the ridge for a short distance
until an awkward step onto the west side of the ridge. The crest of
the ridge is regained and easy ground followed to the start of a traverse
on the east face, which leads to the yellow tower. This pitch,
which is just below Camp II, is one of the hardest pitches on the
climb at 5.8. A short section of ridge now leads to Camp 2. Camp 2
has very limited tent space and is extremely exposed. It is often
only used as an equipment dump with many expeditions choosing to go
from Camp 1 to Camp 3 in a single push. |
| 19 |
Rest
day at Camp 1 |
| 20 |
Climb
to Camp 2 and spend night (19,500') |
| 21 |
Climb
to Camp
3 (20,600'). The climb skirts a red rock bluff on the east and
after a step down, follows the snow ridge direct to an awkward traverse
eastwards which leads to a gully
between the gray tower and the lower rock buttress. We climb the gully
until a very exposed traverse line is reached on the west side of
the ridge. A short snow slope is ascended to the start of the mushroom
ridge. This is followed to a large crevasse in the upper face, which
gives access to a small snowfield. We skirt around the crevasse to
the east side where Camp 3 is situated. |
| 22 |
Climb to summit (22,525') and
descend to Camp 2. The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly
above Camp 3 and to the right hand side of the Dablam (there can be
hard water ice on this section). We continue to skirt the Dablam on
the right side and then move westwards to gain a small snowfield below
the bergschrund. The bergschrund is crossed and then the climb heads
directly to the obvious ice
crest. This is followed in a magnificent position to the summit.
|
| 23 |
extra
summit day |
 |
| 24 |
extra
summit day |
| 25 |
Descend
from Camp 2 to Base Camp |
| 26 |
Rest
Base Camp |
| 27 |
Strip
Camp 1 |
| 28 |
Prepare
for departure |
| 29 |
Depart
for Namche Bazaar |
| 30 |
Hike to Lukla |
| 31 |
Fly
to Kathmandu |
| 32 |
Free
day in Kathmandu. |
| 33 |
Depart
Kathmandu |
| 34 |
Arrive in Los Angeles |
| 35 |
Arrive
Home! |